Leather terminologies are broad. You will know this if you’ve ever stepped into the world of leather.
You might have felt like you stumbled upon a secret language.
The term – leather itself is broad. It is even used to describe many different types of leather, some of which aren’t genuine leather at all.
In this blog post, we’re sharing 10 terminologies commonly used in the Nigerian leather industry. Learn to familiarize yourself with the age-old leather world.
1. Rawhide
Ever wondered what your leather goods looked like before they became your favourite accessories?
Well, the Finished Leather Product (FLP) you are sitting on right now was initially an untanned animal skin, usually from cattle, before it underwent the tanning process.
In other words, rawhide can be compared to the blank canvas before the FLP.
It retains the unique characteristics of the animal from which it originates – the wrinkles, the pores, and the imperfections that define its essence.
The texture of the rawhide is rugged, notably different from the supple feel of its tanned counterpart.
As the name implies, Rawhide is, essentially, the foundation of the leather industry and its starting point before the manufacturing process.
2. Curing
Raw hides need preservation else they deteriorate. Curing provides a protective shield to the hides to prevent decay.
The common substance used for curing is salt. This process buys time by halting natural decay, ensuring the hides stay in good condition until we’re ready to transform them into leather.
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3. Tanning
Tanning – no, it has nothing to do with the skin and the sun. In the leather world, it is the process of treating rawhide to make it more durable and resistant to decay and the passage of time.
The process involves treating rawhide with tannins. These are substances that bind to the collagen fibres in the animal skin, rendering it less susceptible to decomposition.
Before leather is ready to be crafted into a wallet belt, or other item, it must go through a tanning process.
The objective of tanning is twofold: durability and resistance. Durability ensures that your leather goods won’t deteriorate over time, maintaining their form and strength. Resistance protects your leather from moisture, heat, and the wear and tear of daily use.
There are various methods of tanning, each with different outcomes. For instance, Vegetable tanning uses tannins from plant sources like tree bark, resulting in a natural, earthy appearance.
Chrome tanning, on the other hand, employs chromium salts, bringing a softer, more supple feel to the leather.
4. Buffing
Buffing is the process of mechanically abrading the surface of leather to smooth it out. This technique can be done using hands or a machine to remove the textured or rough quality.
In essence, buffing involves a methodical rubbing of the leather’s surface to give it a refined and polished look.
5. Grain
Grain in leather terms refers to the outer surface of the hide. Think of it like the skin of the leather itself. The grain is what makes each piece special.
When we say “full grain leather,” we are referring to leather with its natural skin, wrinkles and all. On the other hand, the next quality of leather known as the top-grain has the outer layer of the layer removed. This makes it slightly thinner than full-grain leather.
Imagine you have a leather jacket – the creases, the tiny marks, those are all part of the grain.
So, next time you’re checking out leather products, pay attention to the grain, it is what distinguishes your leather goods product from another.
6. Split Leather
Slit leather is derived from the lower layers of the hide after the top grain is removed. While it may not have the same quality as full grain, it’s often used in more affordable products.
It’s not as thick or premium, but like we mentioned before, it’s often more affordable. You still get that genuine leather feel without breaking the bank.
It lacks the natural markings and texture of the top grain. Because of this, some texture or colour is added to spice it up.
7. Embossing
Ever seen rough leather with design details like patterns similar to the skin of an alligator?
That’s likely the result of “embossing.” This technique involves stamping the leather with heated moulds to create textures or patterns.
Embossing is used to create raised surface textures and designs including logos.
So, If you want to customize your leather product, you can engrave your initials or chosen floral designs.
But, it’s not just about looks; embossing adds a tactile element too.
Simply run your fingers over an embossed piece, and you’ll feel the raised patterns, creating a sensory experience that goes beyond just sight.
8. Splitting
Splitting in the leather industry is the process of dividing the leather into layers. This allows for different thicknesses in the final product.
Now, why do we do this? Well, each layer has its purpose. We talked about terms like “full grain” or “top grain” briefly, those are often referring to the upper layers after splitting. They are used for high-end products.
The layers below still play important roles, especially in more affordable items.
9. Dyeing
Dyeing is the process where we bring colour and life to the material.
Before the actual dyeing process, preparation is usually made by cleaning to remove any dirt or residue.
Afterwards, the chosen dye is applied to the leather, either by hand or using specialized equipment. The leather, being porous, absorbs the dye and is then dried.
Sometimes, additional processes like conditioning or polishing follow the dyeing to ensure the leather not only looks great but also maintains its quality.
10. Exotic leather
In Nigeria, other animal skins like snakes, and crocodiles are used for leather production. This is known as exotic leather.
The skins of these animals are often used to create unique and high-end leather goods and contribute to the rich variety and luxury appeal of our fashion products.
For instance, in addition to tanning the skin of goats and cows, Kano tanneries which is a major player in the leather game in the country specialize in other ranges of exotic animal skins.
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Learn about “Patina” and the Lagos Leather Fair
In leather terminology, “patina” refers to the sheen or lustre that develops on your leather surface over time. We thought you should know about these “effects”
It tells the story of a leather’s unique experience in the hands of its owners.
Don’t believe it? Well, leather, like a sponge, absorbs everything from the oils on your skin, to scratch marks. These cause unique changes to a product in terms of colour or design.
Your light brown wallet absorbs the pressure and oils from your palm and develops a richer hue over time where your palm grips it.
This is what gives leather its unique character as no two products remain the same.
Remember some of your leather jackets or maybe some boots. When you first got them, they were just new and shiny. But as you wear them, it begins to gather some glow and new shade.
That’s the patina working its charm.
So patina is the sheen, that lustre, the little extra glow, the deeper hue, scratch marks that fade and live a unique blend of design on the surface of your leather over time.
It is the personality your leather gains with each wear and journey and the signature that makes your leather product truly yours.
Now, here’s something to note. The more you wear your leather, the richer the patina becomes.
Patinas are mostly possible with high-quality leather like full grain.
So, next time you spot a little scratch on your leather boots or a mark on your favourite jacket, embrace it. It’s not just wear and tear; it’s the story of your leather coming to “age”.
Lagos Leather Fair
The Lagos Leather Fair is a well-known lingo in the leather industry in Nigeria.
The leather industry is big, promising and largely underutilized. This and more reasons call for the major annual leather event.
This event brings together stakeholders in the leather industry, showcasing products, fostering collaboration, and promoting the growth of the sector.
It is a vibrant exposition of Nigeria’s rich leather craftsmanship. The platform features exhibitions, interactive conversations and workshops, including runway shows.
The theme of LLF2023 is Staying Ahead: Creativity | Collaboration | Commitment. Among other things, this year’s event will celebrate the Nigerian spirit reflected in her innovative pursuits in the leather industry.
Conclusion
You are now equipped to navigate the world of hides, tanning, and leather in essence. We hope that these leather terminologies which may have seemed like foreign languages before are now clear.
So, the next time you slip into your favourite leather shoes or admire a leather bag, you can appreciate the artistry and skill that went into creating it from rawhide to Finished Leather Products We invite you to share your favourite leather finds with us and continue to explore the rich tapestry of the leather industry.
Which of these leather terminologies are you familiar with? Let us know.
You can visit Nestken Masters in their offices at Aba (No. 4 Boundary Street, off Faulks Rd by Seven Deck, Aba, Abia State) and Lagos (No 2. Ladipo Street, Mushin, Lagos, Lagos State). You’d surely walk away with top-quality tarpaulin materials from these offices. Call us now to place your order – 0803 938 8366